Fire

“I know the theory”… I chuckle when I hear that. Not because it isn’t true, but like anything, there are so many factors that you don’t see on paper. As much as understanding the concept, one has to consider the physical effort/coordination/will to survive that plays a part in successfully transferring theory into reality.

One of several iterations of my fire-bow set

For example, The first day I tried to start a fire with a firebow and drill all I got was a sore arm from the numerous tries, and a couple bruised and bleeding knuckles from the firebow punishing me for trying to record a DIY video without ever having actually done it before myself. Yes, I successfully got the coal burning, but it was a long, hard slog, and it took me a few days to get the materials, rhythm and everything else to work. So lets talk about what I’ve learned so far and what the “theory” is for starting a fire with what is considered one of these easiest methods of friction fire starting.

What you need:

• Drill or spindle – A cylindrical piece of wood about 8-10 inches with a point at one end and flat/slightly tapered edge at the other.
• Fire board / hearth board – a piece of dry, wood (same material as the spindle) around a foot long (30 cm) with at least 3 flat sides.

Both of the above should be made from dry softwood (evergreens).

• Firebow – just like any bow a piece of wood that is slightly flexible and has a string tight enough to keep a good hold of the drill
• Bearing block – A small object, preferable hardwood, stone, bone or shell that has a small hole for the point of the spindle,
• catcher – bark, dry leaf, thin piece of wood or other surface to place under the board to catch any wood dust and powder.
• Tinder Bundle – dry, finely shaved / shredded bark, dry wood, moss, cotton, etc. Used to ignite the coal created by the bow and drill.

Steps:

1. On the fireboard, cut a circular hole deep and wide enough to keep the drill in the same spot while drilling.
2. Place the drill in the bow so that the string wraps around the drill once.
3. Place the catcher underneath the fireboard, directly beneath the hole.
4. Place the flat end of the drill in the hole in the fireboard, and apply pressure to the bearing block
5. start a slow, consistent sawing motion with medium pressure on the bearing block. Continue until you see smoke.
6. Cut a V notch that intersects almost to the center of the hole in the fireboard.
7. Start to saw again applying enough pressure and speed to produce a pile of wood dust that is dark brown to black in color.
8. When you start to see smoke, continue sawing and apply a bit more speed and pressure.
9. When you have maintained a strong billow of smoke for 10 seconds or more, stop and tap the dust off the fireboard and onto the catcher.
10. If you can see a red coal in the pile, slowly and carefully transfer your coal to your tinder pile (take your time, fan it gentle with your hand so ensure good airflow before transferring it).
11. Close the tinder bundle around the coal 
12. Blow gently and steadily into the bundle. (Make sure you hold the bundle out to one side so as not to allow sweat to drop on it).
13. Continue blowing until fire is produced… or you pass out from exhaustion. (ok, so don’t do that last part)

If you’ve always wanted to build your own log cabin and then appease your more destructive instincts, or maybe are just frustrated at wasting matches, take a look at this video where I start a fire with my favourite method: the Log Cabin.

Disclaimer: As always, be careful and know what you’re doing. Make sure you practice before going into the field.

3 reasons I love ferrocerium rods (and cotton balls)

Take a look at this video to see 3 easy ways to light a fire in an emergency:

Almost everyone carries one of those LED head lamps. They last forever and, as you may have seen, have an added benefit. They make fire. That’s if you have a bit of steel wool or other fine wire.

The principle is simple and will work with most electronics (including a cell phone battery). Inside your LED lamp you will have a cartridge which should contain 3 AAA batteries. On one side there will be two contacts which connect to the lamp itself. In your cell phone, you have a Lithium Ion battery. You take your steel wool and you place one end on one contact and one on the other.  All you’re doing is completing a circuit. Because the wire is so fine, you will actually overheat the wires and they will glow red.

Just put your steel wool in your tinder bundle and blow it with a sustained current of air and voila! You might not spend the night cold.

I’ve had success with this using the battery from a cellphone and a headlamp, but it is much easier with a headlamp battery cartridge.

Do you carry tinder? What do you use?

You knew when camping season had started when Dad came home with new outdoor gear to try out and use on our trip. From survival saws to camp stoves to waterproof matches we saw it all. What struck me the most (excuse the pun) were the fire starting gear. Particularly the “metal match” Ferrocerium rods. This is an update on the old school flint and steel.

This is what you find in lighters, the fire starters used for lighting gas torches and of course flint rods sold for survival. For the alchemist or really hard core DIYer, they are a mixture of: Iron (19%), Cerium (38%), Lanthanum (22%), Neodymium (4%), Praseodymium (4%), Magnesium (4%) source. It was designed to create a hotter, longer burning spark for igniting things. A LOT simpler than a rock and a piece of steel.


I still have the same “metal match” that my dad bought around 20 years ago (don’t tell him!). I don’t use it much, but I keep it on hand for emergencies. It’s Coghlan’s Magnesium Fire Starter, which includes an added benefit: Magnesium.

The magnesium is that added benefit for wet weather. You start by shaving off the magnesium with a sharp edge to create a small pile on your tinder. Then you strike the flint into the pile of shavings and ignite the magnesium. Magnesium can burn hotter than 3000 degrees C (> 5500 F), so you can imagine how much of a difference it will make.  I like it because it gives you an extra few seconds over the spark alone to get your tinder burning. Its a very simple process that much to the chagrin of my wife left a burn mark in her dining room table. Don’t worry, after half an hour of sanding and varnish  you can’t even see it anymore.

Surprisingly, the price is very low. $6 more or less and as I’ve said, I’ve had it for 20 years or so. At 20 years the flint detached from the magnesium, but a little epoxy and its good to go.

When I finish the video of a pot stand of the penny alcohol stove I’m hoping to put together a video of different emergency fire starters in action.

So, Have you used this “magnesium fire starter” or something similar? What is your experience?

P.S. Check out Coghlan’s new “Green Packaging Initiative”. Although a little step, its another reason to buy from them.